chiaroscuro

The fall 2010 Chris Wijnants collection truly captures the minimal spirit
that is so prevalent this season. With a welcome contrast, it captures a
thoughtful and quiet air in its simplicity. It feels more refreshed than many
of the minimal takes that are just slapping on camel coats and calling it clean.
Frankly, I'm totally disappointed by the print development this season and
so appreciate what Wijnants has done here. The dresses printed with soft,
fleshy bodies have a Tuscan feel about them and are inspiring me to plan
an autumn olive picking excursion. His work reminds me of a young
Dries Van Noten and that is a serious compliment.

italiana pazzissma

Anna Dello Russo, probably has to be my favourite editor to watch in terms
of her wearable selections. I think she appeals to my own sensibilities of
mixing colours and textures. Also the fact, that she sports pieces like that
Miu Miu heavily embellished, bordering on ice skater dress makes me
extremely envious.

awesome optik

It has been a couple seasons since I've had a true feeling and excitement
for Balenciaga. However, this collection truly marks a rekindling of my interest.
The colours reminded me of Japanese washi tape and the textiles of bubble
wrap. I love how the tops look like they are made of foam when cinched in
at the waist. It will be really a thrill to feel all of these materials when they are
in the shop.

punch drunk

Marni Autumn 2010

a grand greek revolution

Mary Katrantzou Fall 2010 offerings really floored me. I have been
watching her evolve since Central Saint Martins graduation and
am consistently pleased with the results ever season, being the
print fiend that I am. These particular ones seem like spontaneous
meetings of fractured chandeliers, bloody french revolution flags,
rococo swirls and rare gem box tops. I love how they are blended
together so you can't pick out the seams.

sac à dos des fleurs

Top photo taken a Milk Studios during fashion week
Bottom photo Menswear in London

this wilderness up in my head

When the design is good, I will get behind whatever it is.
Alexander Wang
Spring 2010
Sunnies Alexander Wang by Linda Farrow

my bed is a pool and the walls are on fire

i want to walk around with you in summertime clothes.
nina ricci/spring 2010

centre of the centre

back in december, Scout asked me to give them some ideas for my
trend predictions for the next ten years. the origins trend is something i
started to think about during my trip to Armenia this past july. they included
the top bit in their newsletter and i was super excited to see these looks from
the Alexandre Herchcovitch show in São Paulo just this week. i really love
how he mixes references and creates something that is refreshed and seemingly
possible to sport oneself quite easily. so the hair accessorizing begins... oh and
the makeup is quite lovely as well.

wavy gravy, save a lady!

i am big time crushing on some of the opening ceremony
spring pieces from their new look book. the washed out tie dye
suede was a smooth move on those triple bow kicks.

ola

albert elbaz art directed this shoot for vogue brazil.
i rarely put up editorials here but really loved this one.
its nice to see a great set idea like this one work so well.

naked thoughts

i have been a long time fan of VPL and victoria bartlett.
i had the wonderful opportunity to work briefly at VPL a few years
ago and i fondly remember it. the day i spent working directly with
victoria was a day that i learned more about the industry then i did
in all of my internship years before.

the human anatomy became the main inspiration behind my
design work when i was in my third year at university in italy.
for me, it was only the obvious choice being that my father is
a bone doctor and i was always fascinated by blood, cuts and medical
instruments. in his honor, i constructed a kimono like robe with the nervous,
respiratory, digestive and circulatory systems embroidered all over it.
it was certainly a labour of love. for now my creations have been
distilled to the human heart valentines i make annually.
its so inspiring to see how VPL has explored this influence and i really
do hope this exhibit makes a debut in new york.
check out my fawning over VPL at SCOUT.
video by dopolavoro gallery, milan.

she's no drag

vena cava for converse on sale december 5.

its on the walls

there have been two major fashion awards/prize/money contests as
of late and i felt compelled to make a comment about it after reading
this today on the nytimes blog the moment.

"The down-to-the-wire decision by the jury, which included members
like Andrew Bolton and Isabel Toledo, was a difficult one, but in the end
a jury source revealed that Wang’s cool commercialism had won the day
over Peter Pilotto’s intricate artistry, which had the second highest
number of votes." the moment on Alexander Wang winning the
Swiss Textile 100,000 euro prize

the day that 'cool commercialism' (what does this exactly mean?)
wins over 'intricate artistry' is a sad one. maybe i could be considered
biased as i do have a special love for Peter Pilotto's work (i'm wearing
a piece by the design team right now) but i feel this statement is simply
the writing on the wall of what is wrong with fashion. yes, i fully understand
pieces must sell and that fashion is business and not art but what about
providing an amazing platform to a young and not as financially secure label.
i am sure Alexander Wang will be able to use this prize to his benefit and
it will most likely help him diversify his fabrics from the usual denim, leather
and jersey that have become part of his signature, but my god, dude is already
so well off! to think what Peter and Christopher (or others well deserving
of the prize, Ohne Titel for one), who are truly innovators in their fabric
approach, could have done with the well needed money?

i was quite 'public' with my personal pick for winner of the CFDA/Vogue
Fashion Fund prize this year. (see my blog entry for Scout here) and
was more than disappointed to hear that Ohne Titel was not awarded
with the cash. Yes, winner Sophie Theallet makes beautiful, totally
well crafted clothing and she has a hefty amount of respectable
experience under Jean Paul Gaultier and Azzedine Alaia. She is
unarguably deserving of her win but again why not award true creativity
and fashion innovation instead of perfect wrap dresses? Ohne Titel
soars in their craft, handwork and completely creative approach to dressing.

is this the way American Fashion goes? or the whole fashion world?
everyone is wondering during fashion week why everything looks the same
especially in New York, but young talented designers get the shaft every
chance there is money up for grabs. we still sit here and wonder how
we could loop a majority of NY shows together in one non stop stream of
video footage because there is next to no difference between many designers.

support independent designers, enough said.

foreshadowed

something must have been swirling around in the air with my thoughts
turning toward the thunder perfect mind prada video the other day.
on friday, prada debuted their book. finally.
i popped in yesterday and picked up a copy and was weirdly recognized
by the staff and we had a mini critique of the resort prints. (which are beautiful!)
its really amazing and much more than a reprint of the campaigns.
its all about production, their various artistic explorations and stores-
and there are thumbnails of every look from every collection.

everything counts in large amounts

i have a new gig, writing weekly for Scout, an Australian trend and
fashion company and website.
so check it out. its a bit different than here. a nice change.

i am compassion and i am cruel

thunder perfect mind crossed my thoughts today.
sometimes there is need for a bit of nostalgia.
and i dream about finding the lip print dress.
and to dance in it to smoky jazz in berlin.
(travel need addition: trip back to berlin in 2010)
thunder perfect mind, jordan and ridley scott for prada, 2005

l'estel fugas

i saw this leather top by Rika the other day at Opening Ceremony
and totally fell in love with it.
swedes always read the stars right.
*l'estel fugas is catalan for shooting star.
the name of a Joan Miro painting i saw in barcelona.

as she talks, her lips breath spring roses

during my trip, i became fascinated with religious painting.
from madrid to armenia to italy and my last days in barcelona,
i was seeking them out in museums.
i finally made it to the Uffizi gallery in Florence with my lovely guide,
Caterina, my favourite Fiorentina and among the gems on the walls
we viewed that day, this painting, Primavera by Botticelli really struck me.
i especially loved this detail, where Zephyrus, the god of winds, is in
pursuit of the nymph Chloris and she has vines and flowers coming out
of her mouth toward her Roman counterpart, Flora, the goddess of spring.
i remembered this Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2007 Couture show and
pulled a few images to get me thinking about halloween.
jean paul gaultier spring 2007 couture
botticelli, primavera

gilded, dark and golden

while i never have been much of a bag lady, always more a hat and shoe gal-
i feel so in need of the bags that phillip lim does
they are just a bit quirky and off with their colours and mix of materials
but so beautiful in this curious way